A blow-by-blow description of a beautiful and practical conversion
Issue 33 : Nov/Dec 2003
The vinyl headliner in out 1978 Columbia 35-footer looked its age. It was dirty, off-white, and sagging in places. Metal rods, inserted in pockets sewn on the back side, supported the center headliner.
Even if it weren’t old and sagging, the headliner posed two major problems. First, it prevented access to most of the fasteners holding the deck-mounted equipment. Second, the edges of the headliner were stapled to the upper edges of the cabin paneling, which was rotten and would have to be replaced.
We could have removed the headliner and sewn up a new one to match, but we’d still have the access problem. We had seen a paneled overhead on a sister ship and in several magazine articles, and we liked the look. It would be a little more work than a sewn liner replacement, but it seemed worth it.
The concept
The idea behind a paneled overhead is to divide the overhead area into manageable panels. Individual panels could be removed easily to reach any fittings or fasteners located on the overhead and to add new deck hardware.
I looked at several ways to create an overhead. The panels could be held in place with trim strips and screws, but this would require removing those screws every time I wanted to drop the panel. Another method involved bonding strips of wood to the overhead and applying trim strips with Velcro to the bonded strips. A third approach was to bond a series of fl at plywood panels to the overhead. The trim strips and Velcro would then be applied to the peripheries of these panels (Figures 1 and 2 on Page 22).
I already had a good supply of 1⁄2-inch medium-density overlay (MDO) plywood on hand and had developed some techniques to cut it to shape quickly and easily. This helped sway the decision to the plywood panel option.
MDO plywood has a phenolic paper layer bonded to one or both sides. Exterior glue is used, and the core has no noticeable voids. It is better than marine plywood in many respects and far cheaper. This material was developed for use in making outdoor signs, so its durability wasn’t in question. The phenolic paper surface is extremely smooth and ready for paint or epoxy.
Demolition work
The first step in the process was to remove the existing headliner. The staples on the sides were easy to remove from the the rotten paneling. It was a little more difficult to remove the staples around the storage lockers at the aft end of the cabin and the areas around the handrails. A little persistence and a pair of needle-nose pliers, and I had removed all remnants of the old headliner and the pesky staples.
Several other upgrades had to be completed before the overhead installation could begin. The first was to replace the side cabin paneling with new ash plywood. The second was to install an additional storage locker over the galley sink, the top of which was against the overhead. The third involved installing additional posts from the side of the galley and the nav station to the overhead.
Designing the layout
With those projects out of the way, I could proceed with the layout of the new overhead. Figure 1 (Page 22) shows a cross-section of the proposed overhead installation. The 1⁄2-inch-thick MDO panels would be cut out, epoxied, and screwed to the overhead. Teak trim would outline sections of the overhead. These sections would then be filled with vinyl-covered plywood panels held in place with Velcro.
The first step was to make a scale drawing of the area to be paneled, including all existing hardware, openings, or other items that would affect the layout. I copied the drawing several times and experimented with different layouts until I had one that looked good, allowed access to all the pertinent features, and avoided all the encumbrances on the overhead.
The next step was transferring the design to the cabin overhead. I established a centerline, using the center of the companionway opening and the mast surround, a string, and a couple of screw eyes. Working from the centerline, I started cutting out individual sections using sheets of 3⁄16 -inch artist’s foam board. I held sections in place with tape or spring-loaded shower rods. I then marked them with the locations of all the teak trim strips.
One complication occurred around the inside handrails located on the overhead. These handrails were through-bolted to their partners on the cabintop outside. I had used plywood shims to space the handrails down to accommodate the fabric headliner. To solve this design problem, I decided to install a 1-inch by 3-inch handrail trim strip to replace the plywood shims. The location of these strips was integrated into the overall panel design. Longer fasteners would be used to re-bolt the handrails in place (Figure 3 on Page 22).
Since these handrail trim strips were to be bolted in place and were substantial pieces of lumber, I added eyebolt anchors for future lee cloths. These eyebolts were mounted fore and aft of the interior handrails.
Rough-cut panels
With the patterns in hand, I proceeded to cut out the individual panels. After tracing the pattern onto the paper surface, I rough-cut the panels using my saber saw. Trimming to the finished edge line was easy. I have a workbench with a piece of aluminum screwed to the edge. I lined up the cut line with the aluminum and clamped the plywood in place with a couple of quick-release clamps. A router bit with a ball bearing on the end rides on the aluminum edge, trimming the panel to shape quickly and accurately.
Next I marked the location of the teak trim strips on the face of the panels. The center of the panels was cut out, allowing a 2-inch rim, or frame, around the edge to remain. This was done to allow access to the overhead fasteners that would be located in the opening. The cutouts also lightened the panels considerably. I could use the opening later when installing insulation.
Once I had the centers of the panels cut out, I used a round-over bit in my router to ease the inside edges. To save time and overhead work, I painted the panels at this point. I gave the paper face of the panels a coat of Pettit White Undercoater primer and a couple of coats of Pettit Easypoxy Off-White. I left the back side of the panels uncoated for the application of the epoxy that would hold them in place. (Note: I usually give plywood a coat or two of epoxy for protection. I only did one panel this way and found that I couldn’t drive the staple for the Velcro into it!)
Panel installation
With all the panels pre-finished, installation could begin. The entire overhead was washed down and wiped with acetone. The areas where the panels were to be bonded in place were lightly sanded with 80-grit sandpaper.
I installed the center panels first, lining them up with the centerline. The cabintop on my boat is cored, which allowed me to fasten the panels in place with stainless-steel self-tapping screws.
In the layout of the panels, I tried to minimize the need to curve or bend panels. Occasionally I needed to adjust things a bit to make adjacent panels flush. Driving a screw through the plywood panel and using it to adjust a panel out to match its neighbor accomplished this.
Once the panels were all in place and adjusted to give a smooth, level surface, I removed them one at a time. As a panel was removed, I applied a coat of epoxy to the back side and allowed it to soak into the bare plywood. I then applied a generous amount of epoxy/filler, mixed to peanut-butter consistency, to the epoxy-coated plywood and screwed the panel back in place.
I filled any voids between the panels and the overhead with an epoxy-fairing compound. I filled empty caulking cartridges (you can purchase these) with the epoxy mixture and forced the mixture into the voids. I used a tongue depressor to clean up any excess and to make a smooth edge. (Note: Be sure to wipe up any drips or runs at this point, or you will be sanding the overhead to remove them after the epoxy cures.)
Once all the panels were bonded and screwed in place, I gave the entire overhead a light sanding with 80-grit sandpaper. The bare center areas were given two coats of primer. Then I applied a final coat of off-white paint to everything.
Trim installation
Once the paint had dried, I began installing the teak trim strips. Most of the teak strips were standard 1 3⁄16 – inch teak battens available at marine stores. The trim strips under the handrails were substantial pieces of 1-inch by 3-inch mahogany, with the lower edges rounded over. I stained the mahogany with Minwax Special Walnut to match the existing teak décor. A powered miter saw made quick work of cutting the various angles the trim strips required.
Starting from the center, I cut the teak trim to size and screwed it in place using #6 x 3⁄4-inch flathead self-tapping screws. You could countersink and bung them if you like, but I have an aversion to bungs. By screwing the strips in place, I could fit all the trim without having to worry about any finish. Once the strips were in place, I removed them and gave them six coats of Interlux #60 Rubbed-Effect varnish before reinstalling them.
This completed the foundation for the paneled overhead.
Removable panels
I moved on to the removable center panels. I again made patterns for these panels from artist’s foam board. In fact, I recycled the foam patterns from the MDO panels. I cut the patterns to allow a 1⁄16 -inch gap around all the edges. This allowed for the thickness of the vinyl material. I cut the panels from 1⁄4-inch exterior luan plywood and sanded the edges to a slightly rounded shape. (Note: Be sure and mark which side the vinyl covering goes on . . . don’t ask why I know this is important.)
I covered the panels with a white marine upholstery purchased at a surplus fabric store. I put the fabric on a table with the good side down and placed the panel on top of the vinyl, making sure the proper side is down against the vinyl. (I told you not to ask why I know this is important.) Cut the vinyl around the panel allowing 2 inches around each side. I used an Exacto knife for all my vinyl cutting and trimming.
Starting from the center of one side, I folded the fabric over and stapled it on. I used 1⁄4-inch Monel staples. I then moved to the opposite side and stapled that center in place and did the same at each end. Working from the center out, I stapled the vinyl in place, stretching it as tightly as I could.
Next I trimmed the corners and stapled them in place. It is a good idea to make a couple of small sample panels on which to practice stapling and trimming before doing the real thing. The corners are particularly tricky.
Final assembly
With all the panels covered in vinyl, it was time for final assembly. The removable panels were to be held in place with adhesive-backed 3⁄4-inch wide Velcro. I discovered that Velcro purchased at a home improvement store is far cheaper than the same thing from a fabric store.
Velcro has a hook side and a loop side. To make installation easier, I decided that the hook tape would go on the MDO panels and the loops would go on the removable panels. I did one edge of the panel at a time, cutting the strip to length and placing the loop tape on the removable panel. I placed the hook tape on the MDO panel in the same relative location as the strip on the removable panel.
The Velcro’s adhesive couldn’t be depended upon to hold it indefinitely, so I also stapled it in place. I invested in an electric stapler to make this project easier.
With the Velcro firmly attached, I could then press the panels in place. It’s amazing how tightly the Velcro holds the panels in place. I haven’t had any panels come loose. In fact, I actually have to pry them off. The tool that paint stores sell to open paint cans is ideal for this job.
Recapping
All this may sound like a lot of work, but it actually went surprisingly fast. It took about a week to design the layout and make the patterns. Two days saw all the MDO panels cut out and ready to paint. I used slightly less than two sheets of MDO at $38 a sheet. The panels were bonded in place in three days, and I had all the removable panels cut in less than two days from luan, which runs $8.95 for a 4-foot by 8-foot sheet. The trim was up and the Velcro and panels in place in about two weeks of part-time work.
After I was done, my wife, Pat, installed the insulation. She used several layers of Reflectrix plastic bubble/aluminum foil insulation, pressed into the center opening of the MDO panels.
Would I do it again? You bet! I love the way it looks and the easy access it provides to the underside of the cabin overhead. It provides sound and heat insulation. The air conditioner ran noticeably less after the insulation was completed. It’s a winner as far as I’m concerned!
Thank you to Sailrite Enterprises, Inc., for providing free access to back issues of Good Old Boat through intellectual property rights. Sailrite.com
