Issue 22 : Jan/Feb 2002
After rebedding our deck hardware (and in the process very nearly causing a Stage 2 Spousal Concern Incident) I thought I’d share a method I (we) discovered that might make the procedure easier. And prevent epoxy from dripping on the settee.
Deck hardware needs to be rebedded every few years in order to keep water from leaking into the boat or, worse, into the deck’s wooden core. To be certain that water will never get into the wood, the best method is to overbore the screw holes by 1⁄8 inch, fill them with epoxy, and redrill to the correct size. Apply a good sealant, install the hardware, and you’re set. The next time you want to rebed the hardware, you have only to remove it, clean off the old sealant, and reseal it.
One problem that crops up in this procedure is how to stop the epoxy from leaking into the cabin below while you’re pouring it in the hole, which, as I have learned, is a mistake. Duct tape doesn’t always work (blasphemy). Thickening the epoxy works but doesn’t allow the epoxy to soak into the wood before it hardens.
After cleaning up some unfortunate spills, my wife, Theresa, suggested (rather strongly, I thought) that we plug the holes from the bottom with Plasticine, a modeling clay that doesn’t dry out. A quick trip to the craft store, and we were in business. The clay will stick long after the epoxy has set and can be removed easily. When applying it to the hole, try not to push any inside or your epoxy won’t get all the way to the bottom.
After redrilling to the correct size for your fasteners, apply a good sealant, such as 3M 4200, and lightly tighten. After the sealant has cured, tighten fully for a good seal. For peace of mind and domestic tranquillity, rebed your deck hardware using this procedure.
An escaped corporate executive, Chuck Fort “sold out” to go cruising with his family. He holds a USCG masters license.
Thank you to Sailrite Enterprises, Inc., for providing free access to back issues of Good Old Boat through intellectual property rights. Sailrite.com
