Home / Projects / Better bilge access

Better bilge access

Diagram of a ship

Now it’s easy to get to the pump strainer

Diagram of a ship

Issue 51 : Nov/Dec 2006

On my 1973 Bristol 30, bilge access was not very good. When I purchased the boat, there was only a Whale Gusher 10 pump in the cockpit connected to a strainer in the bilge. Later I realized the pump needed to be rebuilt.

Reaching the strainer (or even seeing it) was tough. The access through the cabin sole panel was on a sharp angle. The floor panel was positioned nicely over the water tank but not directly over the bilge.

I had rebuilt the entire boat, so why not cut one more hole? I cut another foot into the length of the cabin sole access hatch. The piece I cut out was at the foot of the companionway. Rather than make a whole new 4-foot long piece, I made an additional cover for the section I cut out.

The first access hole (1) was large enough to make water tank access easy but too small to reach the pump strainer. David extended the opening in the cabin sole by a foot (2 and 4), which solved the access problem, but added a new complication: how to match the teak blackline sole? He matched up both hatches and scribed matching black lines with a permanent marker on the teak laminate used to build his new hatch. Once the varnish coats were completed (3), no one can tell the new hatch was constructed at a later date and from different materials.
The first access hole (1) was large enough to make water tank access easy but too small to reach the pump strainer. David extended the opening in the cabin sole by a foot (2 and 4), which solved the access problem, but added a new complication: how to match the teak blackline sole? He matched up both hatches and scribed matching black lines with a permanent marker on the teak laminate used to build his new hatch. Once the varnish coats were completed (3), no one can tell the new hatch was constructed at a later date and from different materials.

My cabin sole is teak blackline 1⁄4-inch plydeck. Since I was not replacing the floor at $400 a sheet, and the piece I cut out was not reusable, I laminated 1⁄4-inch teak ply over 3⁄4-inch marine plywood. This made a very substantial floorboard resting on oak cleats screwed to the underside.

The last trick was to match up the black lines. A permanent marker worked perfectly for this. I drew the lines using a straightedge with the board in place, added four coats of varnish, and a brass fingerpull, and you can’t tell the difference. Now I have direct access to the bilge, my new bilge pump, and the Whale pump strainer. Since I had the wood on hand, the whole project cost me only a day’s labor.

Thank you to Sailrite Enterprises, Inc., for providing free access to back issues of Good Old Boat through intellectual property rights. Sailrite.com

Tagged: